Saturday, 7 June 2008

Photoshoot at The Guildhall, Sandwich


I shot a wedding at the Guildhall, Sandwich recently and returned yesterday to do a photoshoot of the venue. A great opportunity for high dynamic range (HDR) photography. I bracketed exposures at -2, 0, +2 stops, which was only just sufficient to cover the huge tonal range in the rooms. Very tricky lighting conditions with lots of reflective dark wood panelling but a terrific location.

See more of my photography here: Kent photographer

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Friday, 6 June 2008

Feedback from a fellow ePhotozine member

Starting a blog requires a certain leap-of-faith. It's a lot of effort to do a good job and yet you don't know if anybody will be interested in what you have to write.

That's why receiving feedback is so rewarding, particularly when it's as charming as that from Kerry (who's just about to shoot her first wedding):

Having never photographed a wedding before I didn't know what kit I should take (once there I'll be able to judge - when it's too late to dash out to Jessops). Thanks to your blog I've purchased a light modifier for my flash and the battery grip for my camera (350D). Moreover, I've thought in depth about situations I'll have no control over (bright windows in background etc). Without your blog I wouldn't have planned for these so, in advance, thanks!

Well done on sharing all your skills and findings with the world. Your text was clear, concise and downright useful!

With kind regards,

Kerry Bearman

Thank you so much Kerry - I shall continue blogging with renewed vigour!

Check out my profile here: Kent Wedding Photographer

Thursday, 5 June 2008

Colour management part II - the digital workflow


As mentioned in an earlier post, digital and electronic devices struggle to handle colours accurately. However, this can be measured and corrected by colour profiles - a process known as colour management.

Let's have a look at the digital photography workflow, which for most people will consist of a digital camera, monitor and printer. You could potentially colour manage all three devices and create individual colour profiles for them, but in practice, most people will use the generic profiles provided by the manufacturers. People with more than just a casual interest in photography, however, will tend to profile monitors as their colour output changes over time.

You can callibrate all three devices though. To do this you need a colour standard (something that defines what red is, etc) such as the colour chart shown above - these are expensive and have to be replaced regularly. These charts are supplied with software containing digital descriptions of the coloured squares on them - in the RGB colour space as red, green and blue channels (there's also saturation and luminosity information) which have values between 0 and 255 ie 8-bit. There are various RGB colour spaces with different colour ranges or gamuts - sRGB, Adobe, ProPhoto - for home digital work stick to sRGB. So to create a colour profile of your digital camera you'd take a lot of photos of the colour chart under varying lighting conditions and then use the software to compare to the standard and create a colour profile (essentially a database of colour corrections). I imagine that digital sensors don't produce significant colour shifts over time and production methods give good consistency between cameras as most people use the generic colour profiles that come with digital processing software - as in Adobe Camera Raw used by Lightroom and Photoshop - and don't have any problems colour managing their digitial workflow.

Monitors, however, are the weak link. As mentioned in an earlier post, think of the range of colours produced by TVs in a showroom all tuned to the same channel. All models have unique colour biases, there are big differences between individual examples of the same model (hence generic profiles are not as useful) and the colour bias shifts over time! It's for this reason that if you're serious about colour management (you're regularly sending your shots off to be printed elsewhere and the results are important) you need to profile your monitor - I use the Gretag Macbeth Eye-One Display 2. Let's say your monitor has a colour cast. You make corrections to your shot so that it looks good on your monitor but by doing so you've shifted all the colour data in the file you send off for printing! The profiling software displays known colours on your monitor and a spectrophotometer (see the picture above) measures the actual output. Comparison of the two allows a correcting colour profile to be constructed.

Finally you can do the same for your printer. Print off a colour standard and use a spectrophotometer to measure the output or send it off to someone who can. For home use I'm not so fussy (for weddings I use professional printers) so I stick to the generic colour profiles for printer, paper and ink combinations that came with my Epson printer - that's right these profiles are only accurate for the branded papers and inks. You should have a different profile for every paper type that you can use with your printer.

I hope that makes sense. Questions and comments are always welcome!

Please check out my main website: Kent wedding photographer

Wednesday, 4 June 2008

Perspective and portrait lenses

The relative dimensions of an object alter as you change your spatial relationship to it - this effect is known as perspective (and is fundamental to an appreciation of composition). This was amusingly illustrated in an episode of Father Ted when he tried to explain the concept to the dim-witted Father Dougal. The small toy cow he held just in front of Fr Dougal only appeared to be the same size as a real cow in the distance due to perspective - alas the idea was too subtle for him to grasp!


The photograph above was shot with an ultra-wide angle lens at a focal length of 16mm. Not a pleasant sight! To fill the frame with such a lens requires you to get very, very close to your subject (about 5cm in this case). This means that the nose looks much bigger than we're used to seeing - thanks to the unusual perspective.


The above shot was taken with a medium telephoto lens at a focal length of 80mm and is much more pleasant to look at. To fill the frame with the longer (and hence more magnifying) focal length requires the subject to be a much greater distance from the camera (in this case about 2m), giving a more flattering perspective to the face.

This is why lenses in the focal length range of 70-130mm are referred to as 'portrait lenses'. They force the photographer to stand a sufficient distance from the subject in order to fill the frame which gives a pleasing perspective to the subject's face.

Please check out my portrait photography here: Kent portrait photographer

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Monday, 2 June 2008

Feedback from portrait session


I photographed Sia and her parents recently - an absolutely charming family. Just received feedback from them:

We have had 2 photo sessions at our house with David and the experience was really amazing. He immediately put us at ease and we had lots of fun with our little daughter, Sia, for the photos. David had got his portable studio equipment for the shoots and the whole process was extremely professional. It was really good value for money as we got to keep the photos on a CD, he even did smaller versions of the pictures for emailing! I would 100% recommend David for any photography and will use his services again in the future.

Gaurav Gupta


Good photography makes people happy!

Check out more portrait work here: Kent Portrait Photographer

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Sunday, 1 June 2008

Canon versus unbranded accessories


I spend a lot of money on photographic equipment but even I balked at spending £40 on a Canon remote switch last year. I don't use one that often and the self-timer setting can be used in a lot of cases. So I bought a very cheap unbranded-make on eBay - in retrospect, not a very good idea. It was slightly too tight in the remote control terminal, which made it difficult to remove,  and I quickly discovered that it was not compatible with mirror lock-up (I've never actually compared a shot with and without mirror lock-up but conventional wisdom suggests that the latter should be sharper. When you take a shot, the mirror, which has previously been directly light to the viewfinder, rotates up to expose the CMOS sensor, blocking light from the viewfinder in the process - which is why you can't see your subject at the moment of taking a shot with an SLR camera. This supposedly causes the camera to vibrate sufficiently to impact on sharpness and is why many cameras offer a mirror lock-up feature - press the shutter fully once to lock the mirror and then again to take the shot. This is controlled by custom function 12 on a Canon EOS 5D). The final straw was when my unbranded remote switch recently started being unreliable. I therefore bought the Canon variant. It works perfectly but then for £40 it should!

Check out my photography here: Kent wedding photographer

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